
The more time you can devote to it, the freer, wealthier and more creative you obviously are.

These days, it seems life's too short not to be stuffing mushrooms.įar from being considered the basest domestic drudgery, cooking has become a lifestyle choice of the privileged classes. According to the trend predictors, it would only be a few years before meal replacement bars would have consigned the oven to a museum. We seemed set on a path towards ever-greater culinary industrialisation.

Even caring about what you put in your mouth was an indication of unseemly greed. In the 1970s, feminist Shirley Conran's book Superwoman rallied women with the war cry: "Life's too short to stuff a mushroom." By the time I was a student in the 1990s, the ability to rustle up anything more complicated than beans on toast was taken as proof that one's mind was on a lower plane.
Lydia Slater examines two very different culinary pin-ups. And all because of two people: Nigella Lawson, the epitome of chic domesticity, and Gordon Ramsay, the razor-tongued professional chef. In the past 10 years, cooking has gone glamorous.
